5 Reasons Why Your Hair Flips Outwards or Qiao 翘 and What This Psychologist Did to Tame It

Published on Sep 30, 2020

Fine, flat hair is a common grouse, but what happens if your hair isn't exactly straight nor does it have curls defined enough to look good?

Welcome to the painful in-between where hair will involuntarily 翘 or flip outwards, making one look disheveled, even sloppy. 

What can we do in such a situation? 

We get Shinice from Koinonia Salon to share some tips with us.

1. Make Sure Your Hair Doesn't Touch Your Shoulder


One factor leading to hair that curls out (or 翘 hair) is the contour of your neckline. As the neck or shoulder is perpendicular to the hair, your hair ends will curl outwards as the hair ends touches the neck.

It doesn't matter if you keep your hair longer or shorter; as long as you keep them away from the shoulder, your hair will not curl outwards so easily. 

Perm by Koinonia

Perm by Koinonia Salon

2. Get a Skillful Cut


Another reason why hair turns outwards is because of how the hair is cut. If the layers are thick, your hair tends to curl out more easily. 

A experienced cutter will however be able to cut the hair in such a way that it will tuck in. One way to do so is to do some undercutting at the nape. This is suitable for thicker East Asian bone structures which is flatter at the back. This way, the hair will curl inwards naturally.

Alternatively, European head structures with less hair at the back can benefit from texturizing overlapping layers that allow the top layers to tuck in over the lower nape. 

Medium-length Haircut by Koinonia

Haircut by Koinonia Salon

3. Hydrate, hydrate, hydrate


One possible reason that could contributes to the hair curling messily is hair damage. If you've gone for one two many hair colours, you may find your hair curling upwards and frizzing.

Frizzy hair before perm at Koinonia Hair Salon

If you invest in hydration products such as hair masks, deep conditioners and serums, you'll be able to flush out much of the frizz in your locks, making it much more manageable. You may even discover a new love for your hair's delicious density once it stops trying to rebelliously escape in every direction! If your hair is not that far gone yet, it may be worth it to start looking at lower-damage options, whether perm or colour, to prevent your hair from degenerating into that state. 

4. Go on the Straight and Narrow


Rebonding gets a bad rep from its early days of reducing coiffs to something completely flat, featureless, and just generally hanging off your head.

Now though, really natural looking rebondings are available, as well as smoothing perms, both of which give you shiny sleekness without completely sucking the personality out of your hair.

Volume Rebonding by Koinonia

Volume rebonding by Koinonia Salon

There are even C-curl perms that actually slick and straighten the area near the crown to prevent puffiness, but add a neat inward-wave at the hair ends to give your do some movement and on-trend femininity. 

And again, the style is semi-permanent (well, as long as your hair takes to grow out) so that it takes minimal effort to get your coiff in shape.

5. Try a Perm


The problem with the haircut-only approach is that the hair will eventually grow out and curl outwards once it goes out of shape.

Perms are a longer lasting approach as it reshapes your hair and imposes a fixed structure onto your curls, so you looked groomed rather than messy. 

Advante Perm by Koinonia

Advante Perm by Koinonia Salon

But what if your hair is already quite damaged due to previous hair colours and bleaching?

Enter Advante Perm, the revolutionary low-damage perm that works even on bleached hair.

Advante Perm by Koinonia

Advante Perm by Koinonia Salon

If you haven't already read about it, Advante Perm is the first perm lotion in Singapore that can produce defined curls without even opening your hair cuticles!

Low damage advante perm PH Table

This is all thanks to the patented ingredient Thioglycolic acid that softens hair at low pH, allowing stylists to create those curls without opening your hair cuticles. The best part is that the curls are defined and last for a long time. 

Want to see how the process works? We follow Agent G who is getting the Advante Perm at her favourite place Koinonia Salon

Agent G's Advante Perm Experience


Hi, I'm Agent G, a psychologist with the government. 

Frizzy hair before perm at Koinonia Hair Salon

Don't believe me? I can tell what you are thinking right now..

Which is... that I don't exactly look like a psychologist. 

My hair colour is a little bright for what most people think a psychologist should look like and yup, I probably look more frazzled than your typical image of a calm, zen psychologist, right?

Frizzy hair before perm at Koinonia Hair Salon

Well, we're human too! All of us have our own personalities, likes, dislikes, fears and preferences. You can probably tell that I'm a little more adventurous given my choice of hair colour. Magenta is not too common and I love how it perks me up while at the same time, draws my clients' attention to it in a good way. As much as I love my colour, I'm not such a fan of my hair flipping up here and there. 

Frizzy hair before perm at Koinonia Hair Salon

Now that my hair is in the colour I want, I just want to fix my entire mane in some sort of presentable shape instead of trying to tame it every day.

I learned from my stylist Shinice at Koinonia Salon that haircut can help tame my hair a little but with some of the hair hanging around the shoulder area and my hair being a little damaged, it may be hard for it to look presentable without actually blowdrying it properly. (Who has time for that?) 

What about going for a perm? It can give your hair a proper structure and shape so that it will look presentable at all times of the day.~ Shinice, Koinonia Salon

What she says makes sense. But I just went for those pink highlights not too long ago. Could my hair withstand the perm? 

Fortunately for me, Koinonia Salon has just what I need - a new perm lotion that can perm even damaged hair like mine: Advante Perm! Shinice was raving about how it could create defined curls even on hair that has been bleached 2-3 times and so should be suitable even for my hair. 

I may be the expert when it comes to psychology but Shinice is the one I fully trust in the realm of hair; she has never disappointed me even once. 

So here we go!

Step 1: Consultation


I've been with Shinice for a few years now but she only joined Koinonia Salon recently.

Whereever she goes, I go and I must say, I'm really happy she joined Koinonia Salon

Koinonia Hair Salon Interior

Located in the supremely accessible and instagrammable Tiong Bahru neighbourhood, coming to Koinonia is like mini holiday just wandering around the shophouses and the salon? Simply delightful.

Koinonia Hair Salon Interior

The entire salon is cosy, clean and most importantly, welcoming. Beyond the instagram-worthy decor which I appreciate, the staff is just so welcoming and pampering... the moment I get in, they greet me like I'm family, so I really feel at home here at Koinonia. 

Isn't it fascinating that Koinonia actually means Fellowship in Greek? 

Hair consultation at Koinonia Hair Salon

The stylist here in the cheery turquoise is Shinice. Every hair visit with her is joyful as she's always very positive and grateful towards everything that comes her way. This is reflected not just in her brilliant smile but in every little action she does as she goes the extra mile to ensure I'm comfortable and happy in her care. The delicious home-brewed beverage next to a customisable coaster with my name on it is just one of the few examples that make me so at ease in her care.

Hair consultation at Koinonia Hair Salon

Ultimately though, skill is still very important. As friendly as she is professional and meticulous, Shinice makes sure that she is detailed during consultation to make sure I know what I'm getting into. As my hair is relatively thick, starting the perm too high may make my hair look too messy and hard to manage. Given that my locks were bleached and coloured not long ago, I had to be extra careful when trying more chemical services, to prevent further damage and even more voluminous frizz.

Hence, she proposed an interesting alternative: a smoothing S-curl Advante perm near the ends of my hair. As mentioned earlier, the Advante perm can perm hair without opening my cuticles. In fact, the low pH formula will actually close my hair cuticles and help reduce frizz, possibly allowing my hair to look healthier after than before the perm. An S curl is also recommended instead of a C curl as the S gets into shape more easily than a C. Some ladies find that the C curl may flip out at certain angles but that is not a problem with S curl. 

OK, I'm sold, so let's get on with the perm!

Step 2: Application of Perm Lotion


Now that I'm relaxed and ready to begin, Shinice proceeded to mix the Advante GMT concoction (white bottle) and treatment (black packet) to create the perm solution. I understand it's mixed fresh to guarantee maximum efficacy.

Advante GMT Perm Lotion at Koinonia Hair Salon

Then she started to apply it on the second half of my hair. 

Application of Advante Perm Lotion at Koinonia Hair Salon

Then, it is time to let the perm lotion do its work and process my hair. 

Application of Advante Perm Lotion at Koinonia Hair Salon

As the perm lotion softens hair from within, it is necessary for Shinice to check the level that the hair is sufficiently softened before continuing the process. She does so with the following check; Shinice rolled a small lock of hair and when she thinks that my hair is sufficiently softened, she unrolled the lock to see how it turned out. 

Application of Advante Perm Lotion at Koinonia Hair Salon

Sufficiently healthy and bouncy, thank goodness!

Application of Advante Perm Lotion at Koinonia Hair Salon

She then escorted me to the wash area to wash it off.

Step 4: Creating the S Curls


Back at the seat, Shinice blew my hair dry and before the curling even began, she started by straightening the puffy and frizzy top section of my coiff.

Creating S Curl on my frizzy hair at Koinonia Hair Salon

This is the level of detail that she goes into to make sure that my hair looks good. 

Creating S Curl on my frizzy hair at Koinonia Hair Salon

Then it was time to start curling the hair ends. Shinice was very careful when performing the curling to make sure my hair wouldn't have to take more trauma than necessary. After applying the Advante perm solution on each section of hair, a small shred of cloth was placed above and below it, to protect my hair from direct heat,

Creating S Curl on my frizzy hair at Koinonia Hair Salon

Only then was that section wrapped around the roller.

Creating S Curl on my frizzy hair at Koinonia Hair Salon

More sheets of fabric were wrapped around the rollered locks...

Creating S Curl on my frizzy hair at Koinonia Hair Salon

...Before everything was fixed in place with rubber bands.

Creating S Curl on my frizzy hair at Koinonia Hair Salon

Soon, my hair was all rolled up.

Creating S Curl on my frizzy hair at Koinonia Hair Salon

Only then were the rollers hooked up the heating perm machine, where my coiled hair ends were warmed for about 10 minutes.

Creating S Curl on my frizzy hair at Koinonia Hair Salon

Then it was time to remove the rollers! The curls look a bit crazy in this picture...

Creating S Curl on my frizzy hair at Koinonia Hair Salon

...but Shinice ironed them very gently once again to achieve the desired shape.

Creating S Curl on my frizzy hair at Koinonia Hair Salon

Next, my hair ends were placed in a basin, where a setting solution was sprayed on them to fix the curls in place.

Creating S Curl on my frizzy hair at Koinonia Hair Salon

After leaving that on for about 10 minutes, Shinice proceeded to apply the straightening setting solution to the top section of my hair.

Creating S Curl on my frizzy hair at Koinonia Hair Salon

She then wrapped my hair in plastic to trap heat and speed up the straightening process. Additionally, she positioned a heater above my crown for about 20 minutes to set the entire structure.

Creating S Curl on my frizzy hair at Koinonia Hair Salon

Step 6: Wash & Style


It was time to rinse my coiff clean! I wish I could tell you more about the washing process, but a towel was strategically placed over my head to protect my face and scalp while my hair got a good scrub. All I knew was that it felt pretty relaxing.

Hair Wash and Styling at Koinonia Hair Salon

Then, it was time to blow my hair dry to reveal its new shape.

Hair Wash and Styling at Koinonia Hair Salon

Many hands make light work! And finally, it was time for my new do to make its grand appearance.

Hair Wash and Styling at Koinonia Hair Salon

What can I say?

Shinice NEVER disappoints!

How I Look After Low Damage Advante Perm at Koinonia Salon

First of all, my hair after this chemical treatment seemed to be healthier than before. It was shiny and smooth and yes, sleek!

How I Look After Low Damage Advante Perm at Koinonia Salon

As somebody who loves the texture of curls, I also was chuffed with the swirls at my hair ends. They added personality and bounce to otherwise my newly slick 'do, while being strategically placed so as not to compromise on tidiness and professionalism.

How I Look After Low Damage Advante Perm at Koinonia Salon

I'm thrilled to bits that Shinice suggested this Advante perm, and I'm glad I took the leap to try it.

How I Look After Low Damage Advante Perm at Koinonia Salon
How I Look After Low Damage Advante Perm at Koinonia Salon

And now I'm looking forward to giving it absolutely zero thought for the next few months.

Low maintenance, hair quality improving solutions for the win!

Tried an Advante Perm? Share your experience with us at BU.sg!

Related Articles